22. – 26. September: Costa Rica – in spite of much rain an impressive world of plants and animals

On Monday we are once again in good time on our way to the borders of Nicaragua – Costa Rica and hope that it will work out without any major problems or border helpers trying to cheat us off. And this time it is really easy: while I dutifully keep an eye on our bikes, Pat takes the bureaucratic work. It took again about 2 hours but simply because one official had to handle all the truck drivers and us – and he seemed not really to be interested to speed things up. Anyway, we could cross the border safely and this time without big money racketeering and fortunately right after a heavy downpour. Since it was quickly cloudless again we decided to camp that night and drove to the National Park *Santa Rosa”. In our enthusiasm about the positive border crossing we forgot to buy some food and drinks for the evening. So I volunteered to drive back the 20km into town while Pat took care of the camping stuff. It took longer that I had thought and so it was already dark when I came back to the park. My luck that there was a car from a park ranger stopping in the middle of the road – otherwise I probably would have taken the big snake, crossing the street, for a branch and would have simply driven over it. However, after that “snake-discovery” I wondered what other nice animals would be around the campsite. And leaving the tent during the night was not really a pleasure – hearing all the different noises around and not knowing what it was!

The next day started with perfect weather (I do not mention anymore that good weather now alsways goes hand on hand with high humidity!) but soon changed to heavy rains while driving towards lake Arenal. Well what else could I expect in rainy season….for a change here the weather does exactly what it should do at this time of the year, so no complaints aloud. But unfortunately that means that we did not see anything about the lake or the famous volcano. Luckily the dirt road was still quite ok for driving and after a really interesting visit of the Eco-zoo of El Castillo we found a perfect place to stay. The statements made by the local guides about the various highly venomous snakes and frogs have made it an easy decision: no tent tonight! The owner and his wife gave us a huge apartement because there we could park our bikes in an open garage and safe behind their house. They even brought us their own coffee maker and incredibly fine, fresh ground coffee from local cultivation. The goodbye the next morning with lots of hugs and best wishes for our trips. Again, an absolutely great encounter which will for sure stay in all our memories.

Since Costa Rica copes its reputation as "Switzerland of Central America" ​​more than just adequately and you have to pay for practically everything sometimes ridiculous high prices, we took sort of a shortcut and crossed over to the Carribean side, to Cahuita and its famous national park. Cahuita and its magnificent beaches had been about 30 years ago a well-known spot for dropouts; no wonder that the first I smelled driving into the village was the odor of Cannabis ;-)
Among the many foreigners who had sort of founded this village on one hand many Jamaicans who had been hired for the building of the railway but then on the other hand surprisingly many Swiss who finally stayed here and today earn their living with the management of lodges or restaurants. So I could both in the lodge as well as subsequently at the bar chat in Swiss German - almost unfamiliar, after almost 3 months in English and little Spanish.

On Friday we took a walk through the national park: rainforest right hand, beach left hand – and even though spent only few hours in the park we saw countless animals. It really paid off to stand still from time to time for a few minutes to listen and to observe the surrounding shrubs and trees. We have certainly seen more than the noisy chattering, reckless groups we passed.
So staying in Costa Rica, although only a short visit, will stay in my memory with colorful plants, incredible animals and well – lots of rain ....

 

a very rare species - as far as I know just seen once in Costa Rica!!

18. – 22. September: Nicaragua – colonial cities, volcano islands and again some beach life :-)

After the fun volcano tour we set off on Friday with a few "detours" – means some nice gravel roads - to Granada. It's really not always easy to find the way the hostel through all the one-way streets and while suffering in the sweltering heat in such a city. Thanks to god it is near the center and after a quick cold shower we walk into the city to have some dinner. In the historical center, a restaurant lined up to the other and while walking through the street aggressive waiters try to persuade the tourists to have dinner at their place - and, as always of course, the many hawkers. Here in Nicaragua however many of them children, who you can hardly get rid of. Degrees in apparent poverty, it is not always easy to say no. But to buy something from one would mean to have the rest of the evening no rest of all the others. Finally we let us “persuade” and start with the Happy Hour (ok, that was not very difficult: 2 mojitos for converted $2.50) and enjoy a great dinner too. On Saturday just a lazy day and some more exploring of the city; it's really surprising: just one road next to the historic “main street” you find again pure “Nicaragua’s everyday life” what means simple, resp. usually very poor housing. I do not feel threatened while walking through these areas but still think it is certainly not advisable to walk there after dark. Granada has magnificent buildings and churches from the colonial period - repeatedly breached by local building. But it's also very touristy, it's a great starting point for many trips to the surrounding volcanoes, the Lake Nicaragua, etc.

Of course we do not miss that opportunity as well  and decide on Sunday to go at least for one day onto the volcanic island Ometepe. After an hour drive the Ferry will take us to Moyogapa, the main town on the island. Scheduled departure time is: 10:30am, travel time 80 minutes. In fact, then the ferry only leaves at 12.00 and it takes good two hours for the crossing; the lake was actually quite rough. Costs per person, including bike: appr. $ 7:50 !! To the rather adventurous rides up and down off the ferry I still have to get used to sort of ;-)

The island then - apart from the main village - like from another time. Everything somehow cozy, rustic, but also even poorer. We stay on the smaller part of the island in the middle of nowhere (near Monkey's Iceland) after 20km gravel road. Simple but clean rooms, great freshly cooked dinner, breakfast: sublime!

On Monday then already more or less the last day in Nicaragua: around the island on a fine gravel road and just in time to get onto the “ferry” back to the mainland. Did I mention that the up and down driving off the ferry was adventurous? That was peanuts!; THIS time a much smaller ship. The narrow plank that was meant for the passengers to walk over, I do not want to think of anymore. I was so surprised that I should drive over that one onto the boat and the same time knew that the boat was just waiting for us that I had no more time to think. Without hesitating (eyes nearly closed) driven over it and parked my bike on the boat. That I just got through with my side luggage with lots of luck, I recognized only to the flabbergasted faces of the crew! Arriving on the other side then the boat about 1.5m from the pier, again a plank of wood, but this time the ship men decided to move the two motorcycles themselves – just to be sure and I was quite happy about that. Right and left nothing that would have prevented me from falling into the water. 

Then a short drive to another well-known surfers spot: San Juan del Sur. After several attempts over steep and fairly hefty gravel roads we finally arrived at the beach. Completely sweaty we had of course at first a nice and cool swim in the sea and then again later on to end the evening some delicious mojitos and superb tacos.

Well, tomorrow now we will already head towards Costa Rica ... Looking back, I have the feeling that Nicaragua was the poorest countries of Central America. It's really hard to believe how people partly live here, and not just in remote areas. The many begging or junk-selling children, their not-existent chances to a change in future make me pensive. Yet all people with whom we had to do always friendly, often even joyful encounters. The nature incredibly beautiful, the streets surprisingly ok - and with that I mean the majority of gravel roads - prices for us tourists more than affordable.
Nicaragua: definitely worth a visit ....