Already
somehow wistfully I leave San Pedro de Atacama behind me - too much beautiful
I've seen and experienced and even more there would have been to see .... but I
intend to take it easy for the rest of my trip towards Santiago, take time to
take some of the smaller roads along the coast or even briefly branch off again
into the mountains. Except again much of desert - OK, really just desert -
there is nothing to see on the main route to Antofagasta; I take the slightly
longer route passing Tocopilla and from there on can for a little more than
half of the way already drive along the coast. Sort of special anyway: to have right
hand side the sea and left hand side the desert-like mountains.
What
I’ve already noticed in San Pedro is getting now even more obvious in
Antofagasta: the road users (ALL !!!) follow the traffic rules; indicators are
provided, the stop at the stop signs; two lanes are for two vehicles and not
for four, no shoving and pushing. Already almost something boring ;-) but only after
walking 3 hours along the pier and across the city I realized what was really
“missing”: no one honks .....!!!
But
not only concerning traffic but also otherwise the Chilean cities seem somehow
much more relaxed and quiet; it has less of everything: people in the streets,
cars on the roads - the only exception here again make the dogs. Although
slightly less but still far too many straying dogs around - and disturbing as
ever with their barking and howling the night's rest; Well, if it there’s
nothing else I can complain about ... .. sounds like having a good time,
doesn’t it?
the skyline of Antofagasta |
an old system of water-storage...but still working |
these outdoor-workout-places along the piers you find in many cities in South America |
a bit a special, but nevertheless a beautiful Christmas "family" |
Chile is the copper-mining capital in the world!! |
although summer and warm - shops and ads look like back home in Europe |
high professionally street dancers... |
.....watched with interest and amazement by the pedestrians |
On
the way towards Santigao, respectively Valparaiso - where I'll leave the bike
for shipping back home – I stop in several mostly small, cute towns along the
coast. “Relax” is the keyword now.
Or
at least that was the plan – but one day messed that plan quite up. As the rest
of the days passed without any really exciting or noteworthy incidents, I
dedicate this day a few more lines.
"In theory, there are
still around 1500 km to Santiago de Chile. But already one or other detour is
still scheduled. And I'm already sure that it will give me neither on the way
there yet on the coast itself boring ;-) "
By
a Chilean motorcyclist I got the tip to take a different coastal route to
Antofagasta; not faster but far more scenic and interesting than the boring
Ruta 5. Although the road was partially gravel it should be ok for me to drive.
Said and done, I enter start and finish point into my Garmin and my GPS shows
me promptly a perfect looking route along the coast. So no rush the next
morning as it is only a 235km-drive. But fist I take a brief detour to the
"Mano del desierto", a monument in the middle of nowhere built by the
Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal in 1992. 11 meters high it comes soon into
view but only standing in front of it you realize its impressing appearance.
it's size is really imperssing! |
After that back to the original track and having left the Ruta 5 the asphalt soon
turns into "Vichufita" and then gravel; the road winds along the
hills towards the coast; a sometimes quite violent wind makes me drive around
the blind curves sometimes quite carefully. And still I am completely
fascinated by the desert colors. After about 20km then a first intersection but
the road numbers on the sign and on my GPS are the same - so on we go.
incredible view down to the ocean |
The
gravel is taking now a bit more of attention as ever now and then corrugated parts
as well as little sandy but it's still easy to drive. Then another intersection
but this time street numbers on the sign do not longer match with my GPS. There
are also two village names on the street sign but as the GPS and my maps do not
find these I decide to follow the GPS and happen to come to the "base
camp" of mine Lilia. The mine is only open from January to May and
therefore not a soul there; almost no. While I stand next to the containers and
slightly confused check with maps and GPS – because the road that seems to lead
towards the coast is in fact not more than an extremely gravelly dirt road - a
man comes out of one of the containers. He guards the base camp while it is
closed and friendly gives me the information I need: yeah, the path leads to
the coast; although not easy but with caution I should be able to get down to
the coast. OK! I dare to go on, with the knowledge that I always can stop and
drive back if necessary. Curve for curve the path leads down towards sea level.
But after about 5km I have to stop. The river which probably has water any
other year has off interrupted the path.
well.... a nice and easy gravel road looks definitely different ;-) |
the river bed with quite steep borders to get back to the "road" |
Hmmmm .... I get off the bike
and walk to the other side. Since I see that the path goes on and I even can
see some tracks of cars in the riverbed I dare to give it a try. I carry the
luggage roll, the backpack and my jacket to the other side in order to make
Suzy a little lighter and therefor easier to handle and drive carefully on. Not
an easy task as always large boulders and sand prevent me from a speedy ongoing.
And of course it comes as it must; at some point I lose my balance and fall
down; unfortunately I try to keep Suzy up with all my strength and like that
don’t get away from the bike fast enough. I fall as well and I'm lying now halfway
under the motorcycle, my foot pinched from the engine. Nothing hurt but just
quite stupid – as there is indeed no one there who could help me. And 1000%
that there will nobody show up. With sorrow and distress (the swearing I do not
mention in detail now), I manage to pull my foot out of the boot – for once I’m
really happy that the boots are a little too large! After that I manage to move
Suzy a little and pull out the boot as well. With even more sorrow and distress
(and ....) I lift Suzy up and walk the remaining meters to the other side alongside.
I continue quickly as slowly but surely running out of time. It is already 4pm
and still are quite a few kilometers in front of me; mentally I already prepare
myself to sleep on the beach ;-) but my joy is short-lived. After another
kilometer the path gone again but this time the river has done a great job. I
walk for about 500m but it is clear now; I’m not going to get through here. A
Pro like Graham Jarvis would probably manage it with a hard enduro – but not me
and not with my Suzy. Well fine! I’m not only running out of time but also of water.
In about 2 hours it will be dark and I have to struggle back the whole way. Honestly,
at that moment I wish I could just sit down and do nothing anymore. My energy
level is on a critical deep state - not to mention the motivation. But
lamenting is not really helping here, I have to return. So again I drive as far
as possible, carry the luggage to the other side and lead Suzy walking through
the riverbed. Before driving on towards the mine I eat a tomato, some cookies
and drink the remaining water. I have less difficulties driving uphill and
reach the mine camp at 7.30pm. Luis, the mine guard, greets me joyfully - for
him, of course, a welcome change, as normally nobody comes by – and meanwhile I
do know why! After several cups of water he asks me if I want to drive on; if
not he offers me to sleep in one of the empty living containers of the miners.
I am that exhausted that I gracefully take advantage of his offer. While having
a nice cup of hot tea and eating the remaining biscuits Luis tells me about his
life as a mine worker: when the mine is open they work more or less without
holidays or really days off (means during 5 months). Free time is spent
directly at the base camp of the mine; when the mine is closed (when the rainy
season comes it’s too dangerous in the tunnels!) Luis guards the mine
alternately with a colleague. After 7 days the chef brings him back to his
family in Copiapó; three days off then it goes back to the mine. Vacation? Nope.
But Luis seems quite satisfied that he has this work. I ask him what he’s doing
all the time alone here; he just smiles and shows to the surrounding mountains:
a walk up here, a walk up there. Right now there is no electricity as the
generator has first to be repaired (for 3 weeks now); gas for cooking, water, a
toilet and a small solar lamp. That’s all he has. And if he wants to call his
family he has to walk 2 hours up on the hill to have a signal at all.
So
I sleep this night in a bed of a miner; no pillows, no duvet ... but honestly,
I don’t care. I’m just happy to have a place to stay. I've never been so
grateful to have a bed at all. However, what is extremely impressive here: complete
silence and complete darkness and millions of stars ..... Somehow nice here anyway;-)
The
next morning Luis makes me tea again and as expected I’m not allowed to give
him anything for his hospitality; he even refuses as I wat to share the little
brad and salami I have: “you need that for your travel!” So I give him one of
my stickers and my last small Swiss army knife. He is thrilled about these
presents and we say warmly goodbye. Honestly, I admire people like him!
The remaining days until Valparaiso proceed without further "incidents" – as I resist to drive any other tricky roads from now on. By the way: my GPS “insisted” on having showed me the right road down to the coast! As it turned out, the intersection showing to the two villages would have been the right one. But I somehow didn’t feel driving there anymore. Now I just wanted to relax for the rest of my trip - the little adventure at the end of my journey was just the right ending ;-)
However,
I have also learned a lot out it : I am capable of a lot more than I thought ;
if needed incredible energies can be released ; but I became also very aware of
how little it takes (to be taken literally in this case ) to be put in real
hearty trouble ... .
But
as I always say: "it will be ok….in the end" ;-)
Hasta luego, mi amigos
1 Kommentar:
Heeeee mountain sea girl...... heee well done, first a super big merry Christmas & a super special 2016.
Love the road you took & that poor old miner must have had the shock of his life, but what a nice guy.
Glad you managed to get your foot out from under susie blue. Really comes back to the old argument soft or hard luggage. It doesn't matter, if you had aluminium cases you could have broken your leg or enkel, happened me once. But they wouldn't have stolen your hiking boots.
Save journey & have fun..... big hug from a warm Amsterdam Vince
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