November 6 – 11: Peru, part 1…. a completely different world , what remains are the great encounters…..

On Friday I take it easy as I will just drive 185km until Piura after the border crossing. I fill up the tank just shortly before the border as fuel is far more expensive in Peru than in Ecuador.

The border crossing then again totally without any problem: fill in a formula, stamp in the passport and I’m allowed to drive over the "puente international" to Peru. There almost the same procedure:  stamp in the passport, fill in the obligatory form, buy motorcycle insurance and get the copies of my documents; then back to the official ... .only that there is meanwhile a Canadian biker who has lost all his documents - and so the waiting starts. First the officials discusses quite a while with him, then they go together to the Ecuadorian Customs, to look if they still have copies of the papers available ... 1 hour later they come back. Nice enough that the official now takes the waiting persons first now. I "have to" help him fill out the form on the PC, as he has no idea where all my information on the license fit into his form. The fact that the countries are written in English instead of Spanish does it not get any easier for him ... ..and "Switzerland" is showing up  even after "Swaziland" ... .Finally after two hours everything is ok and he sticks the temporary import permit right into the middle of my windscreen.

Both the landscape as well as the villages are changing abruptly. The closer we get to the sea, the drier, desert-like it is. And the incredibly poor villages; most houses are simple brick buildings, a room door, 1-2 window openings (if any), in the best case, the front is plastered and painted, most villages are built in this style.

Piura is not a huge city but I’m still glad that Rodrigo sent his colleague to pick me up a bit outside at a gas station. To drive around and look for a street or a place in a Peruvian, medium-sized city in the afternoon traffic - simply impossible ... .. Peruvians drive actually - as predicted - much worse than any other so far. It’s not only being overtaken from all sides, the continuously honking, some use my side of the street just because it is easier or closer to where they want to go. And how the roundabout works I still haven’t found out ;-)

But I manage to stay just behind Ray and so we get sound and safe to my next “home” for 2 nights. I find shelter with Eswin who has a small motorcycle repair shop. Ideal for me as well as oil and tires change (probably the last one) has to be done.

The front tire brand “Duro" shows after only 4000km huge “stairs” and the rear tire brand “Pirelli "has still little profile after 10'000km but shows cracks after every block. With such tires I really do not like to drive the remaining 3 countries (with apr. 6000km). My first nights in Peru I can sleep in Julli’s room, the sister of Eswin; she sleeps meanwhile in her parents room. In the evening Rodrigo picks me up and we meet his other club members, who of course want to know everything about my trip – and my bike ;-) As I am their guest, Rodrigo orders for me - after having made sure that I'm not a vegetarian - a local specialty for dinner. The meat tastes something special but is delicately spiced and looks somehow like beef. I'm very glad that I ask Rodrigo only after eating what it was: beef, but the heart ... .well, it will not be the last time that I eat things of which I normally would get nightmares. On this point, I definitely have adapted myself to the situation; not because I would otherwise starve but mostly because I do not want to offend my hosts. And that's how it should be - and honestly ... most of the time it even tastes quite good!

The next day we go to the local tire dealers to look for my tires - although I have given Rodrigo the measures of my tires a week earlier and he had replied: "No problem, we have them here"…..  Unfortunately, my rear tire has a size which is not common here (I've listed that for my next trip: will need other size of tires!). The front tire we found quite easily but the rear tire: no chance; Rodrigo calls his colleague Marvin in Chiclayo who also has a motorbike repair shop. Marvin reports an hour later: "no problem, we have one here". I'm curious because: I have learned by now that the south americans will get you the stars from the sky; maybe just not immediately but an hour later - or two - or tomorrow ;-)

ESWIN's mechanic helps me to change oil and tire, to tension and oil the chain.... well, I can help him. You can tell that he is not used that a girl is helping doing this work but he seems to have fun in doing that with me. In the evening Rodrigo picks me up again; another Peruan specialty is due to try - and for a change that is one I fear since I heard about it: "ceviche", raw fish or seafood, cut into small pieces, with lots o and with the spicy sauce it does not taste that bad – although I probably would not order it on my own. 

Eswin's repair shop and home

Eswin's mechanic and Julli, Eswin's sister

my home for 2 nights

Rodrigo with his bike - one of the few "big" ones here

The next morning I leave in time as I should be in Chiclayo before noon as Marvin closes his shop on Sunday at that time. The 200km from Piura to Chiclay almost a bit boring if I would not been fan of the desert, the huges dunes. Cristian – my next host – drives with me to the tire dealer who is supposed to have my tire. Nope .... He has one, but not exact the size I need. After calling Marvin again he means that he will have it the next morning! Now I'm really curious; mentally I already count in having to go to Lima – because there is a Heidenau representative with the tires I need. But let's wait ;-)

So I spend the afternoon walking around in Chiclayo while Cristian delivers totally delicious chicken (with rice, potatoes, salad) in the neighborhood. For that he has a special barrel to cook/grill up to 5 chicken in one time, along with the potatoes,

in every city more or less the same: beautiful places, buildings and churches - next to simple, poor houses of the people

Next morning then back to tire dealer again; Well, he has a tire with almost the given sizes. He fits almost is the type I want to have and the price is quite ok. SO I buy it and we go to a street “llanteras” and within 10 minutes I have finally both new tires. I’m quite glad that I don’t need to go to Lima (only already because of the traffic jam).

Immediately afterwards I'm on my way to my next destination: Trujillo, also a medium-sized town along the coast. The road more or less straight and only 220km from Chiclayo. I decide not to refuel until the next morning because the gasoline is still ok for about 300km. This will be a huge mistake  - probably the really strong sidewinds are responsible for that – after only 180km I have to change to the reserve tank and again after 20km more my Suzy stops. No fuel anymore!!!  Here I am, in the middle of the desert and the next village with a gas station is 5km away. Hmmmm ... .I decide to stop a mototaxi and try to send him to buy some fuel for me. At that moment a pickup stops and the driver  asks if I have a problem. Well, I’m not embarrassed at all!! But he takes it easy (he’s a biker as well), drives quickly to the village and buys me a gallon of fuel. Of course I’m not allowed to pay him, he gives me is business card in case I have a problem again. Well that's now really a helpful gesture….

In Trujillo I meet with Nestor again at a gas station and once more I’m first introduced to his family (with coffee and cake) and then go out for dinner with his club colleagues. It is really extraordinary how serious these mostly far younger bikers maintain the motorcycle camaraderie ... again I’m not allowed to contribute anything to the dinner. I’m her guest and thus invited !!

Again I stay only one night, without seeing much of Trujillo. As I want to be in Cusco until the 15^th of November I quite scheduled the next days. I continue on the "Panamericana Norte" until km 347 !? At km347 Don Clemente operates a restaurant for more than 48 years now;  in the middle of the desert between Chimbote and Barranca . Motorcycle and bicycle travelers are heartily welcome and invited by him. On the way to Don Clemente I’m amazed what lush agriculture shows up among the dunes. Kilometers for kilometers raw sugar, corn, lemons, and rice!!.... I don’t want to know how much fertilizer and additives are needed to produce such rich harvest. The road runs straight almost all the time and so I have time to admire this impressive dunes and desert landscape. I really like these white-yellow-orange-tones and am already looking forward now to the Canons and mountains.

Arriving at km 347 I barely stop the engine and park my bike as Don Clemente stays already next to me. A really cuddly, old man with a wonderful warm smile. He leads me to "his" table where he has all the guest books. Any bicycle or motorcycle traveler who visited him or stayed with him in his small (unofficial) hostel has signed up. After he has immediately ordered something to eat for me we look together at the different items; that's incredibly exciting, including some Swiss. Of course, I leave a message - and as I do not have a personal sticker I draw the Swiss flag and glue a two Swiss stamps as decoration. Don Clemente is very pleased and we talk all afternoon. That's really the only thing you should bring when visiting Don Clemente: Time to talk ;-)

Don Clemente in front of his famous restaurant

sunset over the desert

breakfast !!!!

Of course I can stay with him and his daughter as well as I’m served in the morning with a huge nutritious breakfast . And all that for free!!!  Not for nothing the locals bikers call him "angel del desierto".

The next morning I?m heading definitely towards the mountains, respectively towards Cusco. I'll meet short before Chimbote with Ira, a german woman on a BMW GS800 adventure and from there we will drive together through the famous "Canon del Pato". This exciting story's then in the next blog. Just that much in advance: where “adventure” is written there will also adventure be found J

October 30– november 6: Ecuador in 6 days….short but beautiful…..

So on Friday I drive – after having a delicious berakfast again - the 180km to La Hormiga. The road leads me through hilly, still rampant vegetation to the border; the road most of the time just great:  1/3 paved, 1/3 rough gravel and 1/3 "I used to be paved"!

The border crossing again on my own but couldn’t been easier: the officials send me – after I asked him where the aduana and the immigration is - directly over the bridge to Ecuador: after 3km I found actually both (immigration, customs) from both countries in the same building! That makes it really easy. That easy that I even have time to chat with a Colombian couple for almost an hour. 

Since I had started in the morning later than planned, I drive just outside of Lago Agrio to the next small city.Have dinner at a local restaurant and buy as usual on the first day the new chip for my mobile phone.

The next day I start earlier as I will drive about 300km to Puyo through the mountains. A magnificent road, curvy, virtually no traffic - and as usual if there is traffic in front of me….not for a long time ;-)

The landscape is changing not really, "green" is still the predominant color. The most interesting during that day: a dam for hydroelectric plant under construction. And it will not be the only time that Ecuador’s changesto a modern state shows in alternative energy plants.

this valley will disapear once the dam is finished

In PuyoI’m expected by Renato who brings me from the city center directly to his parents place.3 of his colleagues are also there, everybody is having a early dinner. I’m again heartly greeted from everybody, introduced to the family and have to join the meal immediately ;-) Salad (cabbage and tomatoes), grilled meat and some cereals which I could not define precisely. But anyway, it tasted good. Right afterwards we all returned to our bikes and did necessary maintenance. I cleaned the air filter and the other mounted to the already auxiliary headlamps even more auxiliary lights. It's funny: either they drive around in the dark without light or then with light with that much light that it would be enough to illuminate half a football stadium. In the evening a walk with Renato's parents through the City –answering many questions about Switzerland.The next morning right after putting the airfilter back we make a sightseeing tour again – but this time on the bikes. The little daughter drives with me on the back and enoys obviously that privilege J

After about an hour driving around they lead me to their grandmother who is preparing lunch for the whole huge family: a typical lunch with fresh coughtfish from the charcoal grill, but instead a metal grate, a grate consisting of wooden rods of a certain wood, which gives the fish a special taste. Together with Yuca (tastes like steamed potatoes) and the obligatory salad. Well, I do not dare to say no and eat the fish (what I usually not do)... ..and hey, it tastes really delicious !!

fresh from the grill ........yummmy

As there a storm seems to arrive I leave them right after lunch and drive the short 60km to Baños. It takes me much longer than expected because all the Ecuadorians have a long weekend and are on the road. In Baños then quite a shock for me. I've known that Baños is known and has a lot to offer for tourists - all imaginable adventure sports like bungee jumping, canyoning, canoping, river rafting, etc. - but there were not a few tourists, the whole place was crammed. If I had not had booked in advance 2 nights, I would have driven on straight away. However, I met three other tourists in the hostel and spontaneously went with them to the spa; along with about 1000 other tourists. I've really never seen that before: the pool with the hot water was packed with people. What initially seemed a bit strange, was then quite funny. The Ecuadorians remain mostly only briefly in the water before it’s getting too hot for them - you could tell that most of them simply are not accustemed to hot water.

famous waterfalls with the hot spring

a swiss bistro - with almost swiss prices

tourism pure....

a hall of food places.... a plate with local food for 2.50$

not for fun.....it is used from time to time

On November 2, I was awakened by incredibly beautiful, impressive music from the nearby cemetery. I took the chance and Iwalked to the cemetery. "eldia de losmuertos" is an important day in Ecuador and the families meet at the tombs and remain there sometimes for hours - appropriately stocked with food and drinks. It was a totally nice atmosphere in the cemetery, the touching music and a great view over the valley of Baños. Otherwise a lazy day - somehow this huge crowd has taken any energy to do some of the adventures. The tour of the volcano Tungurahua closed anyway as the volcano is quite active recently and it would accordingly be too dangerous to get close to it as an outbreak is always possible. So I enjoyed at the hostel a great massage of back and shoulders - additionally I got a facial mask for free - although it would have - of course - NOT  been really necessary ;-)

The next day early on the road again; not only because I had planned quite a tour that day but also before all the Ecuadorians would head back home. Happy the two of us (my Suzy Blue and me)drove curve for curve higher up; when we actually cracked the 4000MüM mark, I could not prevent a big grin. Never been that high up with a motorbike. Amazing about this region was that in contrary to Europe there is still quite a prospering vegetation, the locals harvest even maiz, potatoes, onions…..

At the crater lake of the dormant volcano "Quilotoa" I decide spontaneously to test my fitness level and walk the 350 meters of altitude down and up again - in contrast to many tourists which let themselves been carried up by mules. Of course I feel a little more breathless while walking up – and that really might be the uncommon altitude of 3800m but otherwise I feel no 'altitude symptoms ";-)

The short hike was definitely worth the effort –anyway because I wanted to find out whether I shall book for a trekking up to Machu Picchu (not the famous Inka-Trail; that one is already sold out for a long time). Concerning the altitude I think I should not have any problems; but I didn’t make up my mind yet as the trekking is quite expensive and it is rainy season now in the area.

In the afternoon I drive as afar as Riobamba – jus a stopover – and the next day on to Cuenca. I arrive quite in time and as Pipe (my local host-biker) has to work until five I park my bike and walk through the nice old town of Cuenca.

While we wait at the a gas station for his colleague an Ecuadorian biker with a BMW HP1200 sees my bike and starts talking with us. He is curious about my travel, the bike and then also how it comes that I can sleep at Pipe’s hostal.So once he finds out how it “works” he invites us to have dinner and wants to know more about Pipe and his hostal. In the end he not only invites us for dinner but also I willing to help Pipe with the renovation of the hostal.The will meet the next day and Gonzalo will pay the costs for the material Pipe needs. So for once I can sort of give something back to my host. Again I’mastonished how uncomplicated people deal with each other. So after the dinner we drive to Pipe’s little hostel, where up to 6 people can sleep…..and as always for free !!In the hostel I meet an Argentinian motorcycle couple, 2 cyclists (from Brazil and Colombia). A funny mix of people which all have many anecdotes and pictures of "their" journey to share.

And so I already come to the end of my Ecuador visit. I drive the next day to the border village Maricara and stay there overnight. Again the road from Cuenca to Maricara was just gorgeous and curvy – meanwhile I hardly dare to write that anylonger ;-)

In Maricara I filled the tank as the fuel is much more expensive in Peru. Leaving Ecuador was almost as easy as entering it. I could help the aduana officer in finding Switzerland on the long list of countries (unfortunately for him written in English and not in Spanish). And would there not have been a Canadian biker who had lost all his papers and discussed about his problem with the officer, I guess I would have passed the border within half an hour. Well, it took 1.5 hours – which is in comparison to many other countries on my trip – still quite fast.

I know that I missed a lot of beautiful places in Ecuador. But I’m getting tired of the “green” scenery. Of course the volcanoes have impressed me very much (even the weather was unfortunately not good enough to see them in sunshine) but otherwise the scenery has many similarities with the agricultural hill areas in Switzerland - just that everything here somewhere between 2000 and 3500MüM and huge!! Of coursethis is a beautiful landscape but to see such a scenery I wouldn’t need to travel to the other side of the Globus J - that’s something I can enjoy well enough back home ;-)

I’m happy to reach Peru right now and area really wondering whether my “personal leader “Colombia will be able to keep the number 1 on my favourite-list;-)...

PS: there are some pictures missing now....I will "deliver" them as soon as I have a little bit faster WiFi again ;-)

25. – 30. October: Colombia, part 3…… dschungel, cañons and an unbelievable hospitality…..

After breakfast at seven I start my Tatacoa desert tour with Holman. Finally I can ride in one of this funny moto taxi's. This had long been meanwhile for a long time on my "to-do list" ;-) 

 After a brief, bumpy ride - with numerous difficulties driving up the steep hill - Holman and I get out of the taxi and hike through the gray part of the Tatacoa desert. Holman tells me everything about fauna and flora - from which I just understand about 50%, since it is only in Spanish ;-) but impressive anyway, especially the complete silence. 

the fruits of that cactus you can really eat - and tehy taste good ;-)

such beauty in such a hard environment

After an hour we reach a small finca where they have built a small and intimate swimming pool, thanks to an underground spring and with that pool for the tourists they can earn a living that.
Oh, what a luxury to cool down a bit after the already sweltering heat in the desert

But the joy is short - on we go, this time to the red part of the Tatacoa desert. The formations remind me very much of the Bryce Canon in Utah. After returning to the village, a short walk through the (very modest) Paleontological Museum, then I get my stuff ready and ride on to Neiva.

hard to find suficcient food in this rough landscape

In fact, Fredy, the Colombian biker had not promised too much and so after his "announcement" on whatsApp I have the opportunity to stay in Neiva with Mauricio and his family. Neiva is quite big but we meet at the soccer stadium and that place even my Navi finds easily. Mauricio picks me up and we drive together to his house. Quick getting out of my clothes, in Neiva it is almost as oppressively hot as in the desert. As Mauricio's wife has to work longer than expected Mauricio can not make the planned city tour with me - somebody has to stay at home with the baby. He instists that I have to see the city and so he organizes his "Pulsar" -club mates (Pulsar is a motorcycle brand!). They pick me up at his house - a bunch of young people - gather first around my bike, lots of questions as usual and then they show me with pleasure the sightseeings of Neiva (in the dark) and of course on the bikes!! 

The next day I go with Mauricio to the motorcycle area (a whole block), buy a new chain for my Suzy and while the local mechanic is wokring on it Mauricio shows me more of the city. When I pick up my bike again I stuck because he has so many questions; while having 2-3 of the nice Columbian coffees (they drink coffee also in this heat) we talk for more than an hour. As I will pay his work - he had agreed a price with Mauricio in advance - he insists that I do not have to pay it. He just wishes me a great trip and thanks for the interesting talk!!! Wow, it would have been cheap anyway (in my opinion) but of course that is truly a great gesture. And this in a country where people need every cent for their living. In the evening, then a new experience: I go with Mauricio and his wife to the movies. We will watch "Peter Pan" and because at the box office it was written "doble idioma" (bilingual) we automatically assumed that it is in English with Spanish subtitles. NO; it was exclusively in Spanish - except for the film songs which had been in the original language. Ooookkkkeeee ... .. another way to improve my Spanish ;-) but it was fun anyway.

On Tuesday then Mauricio leads me through the heavy traffic to the city limits and we say goodbye cordially. He has already organized my next host. In Mocoa it will be at Olivers and his wife Olgas place where I can stay. The trip to Mocoa leads me once again by small, lively villages, the landscape changes from desert similar to agriculture (rice, corn, coffee, cocoa) and then finally to dense jungle. In Mocoa Oliver is waiting at the village entrance and as I pass by - his waving and shouting is useless, I do not see him (and wouldn't know anyway how he looks). So he sends me a motorcycle colleague afterwards who catches me and leads me back to them. Oliver is waiting with his wife, his little adopted daughter and the Pinscher for me and they welcome me so warmly as if they know me already for a long time. The whole family then packed on the little scooter we drive to his apartment. I'm even able to drive up the tricky driveway into his garage and again I'm served first with coffee and pastries. Despite my opposition they insist that I will slepp in their bedroom while they are sleeping on a mattress in the living room. I feel a bit weird but for them it seems to be the most normal thing in the world. I'm their guest and the guest is king !!

The two planned nights turn out into three as they want to show me all the beautiful things in Mocoa. Although I have already made my travel plans I cannot resist: Oliver and Olga lead me to the cañon del Mandiyaco, in the domestic zoo and then the next day during a 6-hour, partially adventurous, leading through dense jungle hike first to the "ojo de dios" and then to "fin del mundo": 3 waterfalls with nice pools to swim, the last and highest with 70 meters! A beautiful river scenery in the middle of the jungle, no other sounds than the rippling water, the chirping of cicadas and the sounds of the many birds. In between, we have time for a swim and make a lot of pictures. An incredible experience to which I would certainly not have had the opportunity being on my own.

el ojo del dios 

canon de Mandiyaco

el fin del mundo - a cascade with 70 meters!!

In both families I have been welcomed as if we know each other for years already; they took days off for me and with pride "presented" me to their friends, familys and biker colleagues. Of course, here in Columbia plays the fact that I am a woman traveling solo on a motorbike, a certain role. But all motorcyclists are welcome, it is like a code of honor and that way they make traveling possible for bikers allover Southamerica. The costs of hotels and food would make it impossible for most of them. And the Southamericans are passionate bikers!!! Such unprecedented hospitality I've never seen in my life!!
To reassure all: I will not take the famous road "devil's trampoline or trampoline del diablo" to the Ecuadorian border tomorrow. Oliver has advised me not to take it. The gravel road is normally in acceptable conditions but it is very curvy and extremly narrow and you have to find place between crossing trucks and buses. On one side the rock and on the other side nothing; some hunderd meters further down the river. Many deadly accidents make it to one of the most famous roads in the world (look after it on youtube). So I will drive the 180km on the normal road (2/3 paved, 1/3 bumpy gravel) to La Hormiga and cross there the border to Ecuador.