Sunday, August 23 – Saturday, August 29, 2015: Mexico'ss mainland, 2. part…… daily downpours inluding from now on

Again traveling alone now I drove on Sunday quite directly to Cordoba, a really picturesque town, belonging to the area of ​​Puebla. Along the way a short visit to my first Indian ruins at Cacaxtla and on the way back finally been really stopped for the first time at a police check. But since my papers all are fine (now) I was able to continue without any problems. In Cordoba then got into a complete traffic chaos because Cordoba celebrated its 194th founding anniversary ;-) seems quite cool to me: no matter what year, it has to be celebrated ....

ruins and the famous paintings from Càxactla

 

 The next day I smoothly looked around the city and equipped my bike with additional lamps after my Mexicans had assured that my normal lighting in the rain, respectively fog is barely visible. And since I will have to handle the coming weeks quite often with thunderstorms and in the mountains with fog, I wanted to take remedial action. Since no specific motorcycle shops were around, I just bought some garish bicycle reflectors (back) and huge LED flashlights (front). I am now actually really much better visible. Well, in our home police makes a huge fuss about any additional lights, while they should be glad if the motorcyclists are better seen (well….that’s a Swiss specific topic). Here all vehicles are equipped after everybody’s “gusto” with spotlights and other fancy things; the main thing: visible to the other traffic

On Tuesday the absolutely cool route (carratera 175) from Cordoba to Oaxaca. From 800m to 3000m and again down to 1500m on 150km curves without end. Just great, although it was a bit drizzling at the summit and was accordingly quite cool (distinguished expressed). Hardly down in the valley then the sultry heat, sweat flowing in streams or “Sauna of a different kind”. In Oaxaca I drove directly to the Suzuki dealer to organize the small service and the exchange of the rear tire. Although still a lot of profile on the sides, the mechanics had also the opinion that another tire definitely would be necessary for the rainy season and eventual muddy roads in Central America. I really was a little sour that after not even 5000km the tire had to be changed again - the next time I insist on "my" tire and won’t let me sold anything else. Thanks to the Navi I afterwards easily drove through the rush hour traffic and found the hostel just next to a large park. And here I came for the first time to enjoy, to be able to park my bike in the hallway of the entrance area. Quite a funny feeling to squeeze the bike directly into the hostels hallway - God, I'm glad I have a small motorcycle ;-)

much nicer without traffic :-)

sometimes quite strange entrances to th shops

colourful shops to attract the clients

 During my Suzy Blue got its makeover, I made a tourist tour: Monte Alban, a really big, awesome ruin site of the Zapotecs. Quite impressive what a cultivated, well-organized high-culture they already had 500v.Chr. We had a talkative, but very amusing indigenous Guide who fed us with incredibly exciting information about what the Zapotecs already had known and in everyday life had been applying (natural remedies, agriculture, irrigation, etc.). And his disapproval of the Europeans (considered history) and the present government was also coming out quite clear. I was once again the only non-Mexican in that group and so “was able” to practice my Spanish ... ..phhhuuuu .

After the ruins we visited two handcraft businesses: a wood carving with painting and a clay pottery. But both still run after the old principles and it was absolutely amazing to see the skills with which the craftswomen and craftsmen with the simplest of tools manufactured the most incredible products. 

the imrpessing huge ruins of Monte Alban

 

                         

guide guide Alberto

an amazing familytradition

death and skulls everywhere you go

that's all it needs for these incredible beautiful handcrafted products

In the evening then I could pick up my Suzy Blue: freshly washed, little service done and with a great new rear tire. The way it should be again; now I just had to take care that my motorcycle dresses get a washing as well - at the moment I would not be included in any motorcycle catalog ;-)

To conclude this part of Mexico I drove the "175" down to the Pacific coast. What would once again been a great fun (up again to 2800m and down to sea level). “Would be” if I would not have been struck by one of these tropical storm halfway. For once not overtaking the slower cars but thankful behind them; like that I could always see in time how high the water flooding the street was and where the non-signaled "bumps" were hidden. Once more the motorcycle suit and the boots hold what they promised and the gloves at least had bravely fought long against the water. Not such a big thing as after the storm stopped the tropical heat was back within minutes. As soon as possible get out of the rain gear again to avoid melting away underneath.

Unlike most tourists I headed not to the famous surfing spot "Puerto Escondido" but to the small, sleepy nest Puerto Angel. A good choice with a wonderful hostel and after a nice cold shower a short walk down to the beach and having supper with the locals: tacos with different fillings - I think that is my favorite food by now :-)

the view from my room

the outdoor sink

isn't that absolutely great?

In short, I really like Mexico so far: its history, the landscape, the streets; but above all the people. Until now only friendly, interested Mexican men and women who always tried really hard to communicate with me. So below just some more pictures..... hasta entonces

trying to earn some living.....a hard job for many elderly people

Thursday, August 20 - Saturday, August 22, 2015: Mexicos mainland part 1.....or how can I survive the mexican way of driving :-)

After the as expected uneventful ferry ride, we - I am still on the road togehter the Mexican "boys" - drove the next day along the coast to Mazatlan, a cute city at the coast and then off the coast to Mexico's inland. We left early in the morning as a long ride was ahead of us: via Durango to Zacatecas, a picturesque, beautiful town. First we took the highway because we wanted to see the bridge "el Baluarte" and then changed to the old road around 100km curves without end, no other traffic in sight. I'm hopelessly underpowered compared to the Harleys and Goldwings of my Mexicans but as I'm used to drive mountain roads I could easily keep up - ääääähhh, respectively had to make a lazy minute every now and then because my driving style was defenitely quite a bit speedier ;-)

 The color green dominates, endless hill landscape and we now always moved around 2000m above sealevel, with however still good 30 ° C. Unfortunately we had been repeatedly surprised by sometimes violent thunderstorms - according to the season; these sudden downpours and the correspondingly in between tropical heat and humidity will be for quite sure my company by the next few weeks through Central America - so get better used to it. At lunchtime we stopped in a typical country style small village and had lunch in the only restaurant: simple but delicious. The good people had a real joy that they had guests again: since the new highway was open hardly anyone took the much longer country road. So they had quite a hard living now...but for me a mystery anyway on what all the inhabitants of these villages live.

 Not even a kilometer later then one of the many military controls. Only this time not as usual waved through but nevertheless stopped and forced us to actually to carry our luggage through an ultramodern scanner (like at the airport). I just thought: ooohjeee that will last hours until we have all our bags through. Either they have even noticed that a lot of work would have meant or José's has managed to convince them of our innocence; 2 pieces of luggage per person and we were allowed to drive on. What that procedure should be good for not even the Mexicans could explain to me. "Thanks" to this unexpected interruption we arrived at exactly the rush hour in Zacatecas; and I one again had the "pleasure" to practice the Mexican style of driving  so I did not lose my friends on the way to the hotel.
Now here comes some extra topic about the traffic: outside the towns and villages no one (not even the police) cares about: speed limits, safety lines, double security lines, overtaking and similar signes. In the cities, you have two ways to move forward: good driving according to rules and have, for example, 2 hours for a ride around town or: right, left, through in the middle - no matter where, just there where's enough space for the vehicle. And by that I mean not only the motorcyclists!. Always look in the mirrors, put blinkers, no second get distracted otherwise crashes's ... .and so you can get through the city, for example, 30 minutes. Only traffic lights and stops must be observed. Everybody is honking like crazy. That is probably the only thing that I have not yet adopted - because it actually nothing changes and does not bring you forward any faster. And what a sursprise: this driving style I enjoy ... .and I'm getting better every day ;-)
Another curiosity is the so-called "reductores de velocidad", so-called "bumps". The bumps are to bring the racing Mexicans in the villages down to a reasonable speed. In an average village it has approximately every 20 meters such a "reductor" !! And you really must pay attention to them. A few can be crossed by bike (like mine not a Harley or similar) with 40kmh, but  standard is with max. 30kmh. THe really high ones even with less speed. To be fair, most of them are almost always announced (see pictures). But oh God, in case you overlook one! Bad for  the bike as well as for your back. The cars, trucks and buses go accordingly virtually to a standstill. Now that I call a real traffic calming ... .. but one that already can be quite annoying to be honest. Meanwhile I'm not waiting for the most part behind the cars until they are finally over it but overtake them right or left, mostly standing up as like that I can "crack" them faster. Yeahaaa...

Back to our tour. After Zacatecas it was now time to say goodby to my mexican friends .  The drove home (menas left side of Mexiko Ciity) and I turned right  to avoid  this Moloch and  now  slowly approach Guatemala's border. Of course I was a bit sad at the moment. After a week I got almost accustomed again not to drive alone. But that is of course part of my trip and I think that in one way or another these new friendships will last long after I return back home. Either way, there are always valuable, beautiful encounters that I'll never forget.

Sunday, August 16 - Wednesday, August 19, 2015: Baja California.... and all of a sudden part of a men's group ;-)

After having been “stuck” for a few days I wanted be bit busy for a change and had for Sunday quite a distance in mind: from Ensenada way down to Guerrero Negro, around 600km. What not seems to be an excessive distance normally, but at somewhere between 35 - 38 degrees Celsius and with always the hot wind (a "companion" I’m still not friend of) the day seems endless. Repeatedly interrupted by either drinking breaks, photo stops or military controls (although I never been stopped so far), I drove on hour for hour. And I'm finally even 1,2 times saw a few motorcyclists.  

Striking throughout the journey the many "farewell" for drivers (mostyl truck drivers, I guess) who had lost their lives on that street. The Mexicans celebrate it somehow  - sometimes quite bizarre to see all these little "cottages" with cross, flowers and images of saints.

          

In the evening I was quite exhausted and did not go into the village but stayed right away in the hotel’s restaurant. And there they were again, the bikers who I had already seen. They had their dinner at the same restaurant as me. Of course we had a little chat (with hands, feet, Mexican, English) and they gave me the advise to take another ferry to the mainland as I had planned. 

After the agreement with my room-”mates” that they would stay where they were (up on the ceiling), I had a good and deep sleep and got back on the road quite early to avoid the biggest heat.  

 

While I again made some photos the Mexican bikers passed by and convinced me to escape the hot weather for a moment and take a bath at a beautiful beach with a restaurant. Of course an inviting I could not resist. 

A funny men's round of 3 Harley and 2 Goldwing riders, somewhere between the ages of 40 and 60 years, on the way back from Sturgis and almost one month on the road as well. As I had more or less the same distance in front of me I joined the group for the next few days. Or correctly said: they invited me to do so. That was really a change to drive with others, not to eat alone, to be able to talk with somebody at the stops - well, frankly more listened as chatting because hardly any of them spoke English. But of course this situation brought the advantage that I had to improve my Spanish definitely. The five did really make a big effort with me and with the time we got along quite well. Apart from the language I also learned to know the typical Mexican dishes. As there are many things on the menu I do not know at all, I had let most of the time one of them choose for me - and got me "in danger" that I would have to eat what they ordered for me- as for until now I did not eat any fish or seafood! Everything except dishes with eggs. And so I eat now Enchilladas with Merlin, with cheese baked mussels, stews of which I do not know exactly what's inside (but nevertheless tastes great) and the Mexican’s favourites: tacos with all kinds of fillings, including fish and of course always Frijoles that tastes me surprisingly well and does not have any unpleasant side effects (pffffff). The boys all seasoned their food still with lime and especially with tons of fresh chilies, something I avoid to eat, resp. not try anymore after one attempt: They could hardly stop laughing about my reaction on the chili. During the day we all had been serious, no beer or other alcoholic stuff (what was the name of the drink like an flower? I already forgot)…. in the evening though, well that was something different....

Another advantage to be a “little group”? Such nice things as a charter boat tour in Cabo San Lucas, or to be able to persuade the road construction workers to let us pass the blocked road so that we could park our bikes right in front of the famous Hotel California in Todos Santos (the one from the song by The Eagles). I have to be honest, I had NO IDEA that this hotel in fact existed!? But it did quite impress me - and of course I had to try how it feels like to sit on a Harley (just the proper bike for that occasion) and listen simultaneously to "Hotel California" in a volume that would have filled a concert hall….. no further comment about it ....

 

On Wednesday we drove back to La Paz and took the ferry to finally “attack” the Mexican mainland. I'm going to stay together with the guys for a few days as they go on their way home to the inland. Along with the predicted thunderstorms and the temperature on the coast I took the chance to let me show more of this great country by locals. More of it "soon in this theater"….. 

 

Hasta mañana..... :-)