Again traveling alone now I drove on Sunday quite directly to Cordoba, a really picturesque town,
belonging to the area of Puebla. Along the way a short visit to my first
Indian ruins at Cacaxtla and on the way back finally been really stopped for
the first time at a police check. But since my papers all are fine (now) I was
able to continue without any problems. In Cordoba then got into a complete
traffic chaos because Cordoba celebrated its 194th founding anniversary ;-) seems
quite cool to me: no matter what year, it has to be celebrated ....
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ruins and the famous paintings from Càxactla |
The next day I smoothly looked around the city and equipped my bike with
additional lamps after my Mexicans had assured that my normal lighting in the
rain, respectively fog is barely visible. And since I will have to handle the
coming weeks quite often with thunderstorms and in the mountains with fog, I
wanted to take remedial action. Since no specific motorcycle shops were around,
I just bought some garish bicycle reflectors (back) and huge LED flashlights
(front). I am now actually really much better visible. Well, in our home police
makes a huge fuss about any additional lights, while they should be glad if the
motorcyclists are better seen (well….that’s a Swiss specific topic). Here all
vehicles are equipped after everybody’s “gusto” with spotlights and other fancy
things; the main thing: visible to the other traffic
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On Tuesday the absolutely cool route (carratera
175) from Cordoba to Oaxaca. From 800m to 3000m and again down to 1500m on
150km curves without end. Just great, although it was a bit drizzling at the
summit and was accordingly quite cool (distinguished expressed). Hardly down in
the valley then the sultry heat, sweat flowing in streams or “Sauna of a
different kind”. In Oaxaca I drove directly to the Suzuki dealer to organize
the small service and the exchange of the rear tire. Although still a lot of profile
on the sides, the mechanics had also the opinion that another tire definitely
would be necessary for the rainy season and eventual muddy roads in Central
America. I really was a little sour that after not even 5000km the tire had to
be changed again - the next time I insist on "my" tire and won’t let
me sold anything else. Thanks to the Navi I afterwards easily drove through the
rush hour traffic and found the hostel just next to a large park. And here I
came for the first time to enjoy, to be able to park my bike in the hallway of
the entrance area. Quite a funny feeling to squeeze the bike directly into the hostels
hallway - God, I'm glad I have a small motorcycle ;-)
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much nicer without traffic :-) |
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sometimes quite strange entrances to th shops |
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colourful shops to attract the clients |
During my Suzy Blue got its makeover, I made
a tourist tour: Monte
Alban, a really big, awesome ruin
site of the Zapotecs. Quite impressive what a cultivated, well-organized
high-culture they already had 500v.Chr. We
had a talkative, but very amusing indigenous Guide
who fed us with incredibly exciting
information about what the Zapotecs already had
known and in everyday life
had been applying (natural
remedies, agriculture, irrigation, etc.).
And his disapproval of the Europeans (considered history) and the present government was
also coming out quite clear. I was once
again the only non-Mexican in that group and so “was able” to
practice my Spanish ... ..phhhuuuu .
After the ruins we visited two handcraft
businesses: a wood carving with painting and a clay pottery. But both still run
after the old principles and it was absolutely amazing to see the skills with
which the craftswomen and craftsmen with the simplest of tools manufactured the
most incredible products.
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the imrpessing huge ruins of Monte Alban |
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guide guide Alberto |
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an amazing familytradition |
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death and skulls everywhere you go |
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that's all it needs for these incredible beautiful handcrafted products |
In the evening then I could pick up my Suzy
Blue: freshly washed, little service done and with a great new rear tire. The
way it should be again; now I just had to take care that my motorcycle dresses get
a washing as well - at the moment I would not be included in any motorcycle
catalog ;-)
To conclude this part of Mexico I drove the
"175" down to the Pacific coast. What would once again been a great fun
(up again to 2800m and down to sea level). “Would be” if I would not have been
struck by one of these tropical storm halfway. For once not overtaking the
slower cars but thankful behind them; like that I could always see in time how
high the water flooding the street was and where the non-signaled
"bumps" were hidden. Once more the motorcycle suit and the boots hold
what they promised and the gloves at least had bravely fought long against the
water. Not such a big thing as after the storm stopped the tropical heat was
back within minutes. As soon as possible get out of the rain gear again to
avoid melting away underneath.
Unlike most tourists I headed not to the famous
surfing spot "Puerto Escondido" but to the small, sleepy nest Puerto
Angel. A good choice with a wonderful hostel and after a nice cold shower a
short walk down to the beach and having supper with the locals: tacos with
different fillings - I think that is my favorite food by now :-)
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the view from my room |
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the outdoor sink |
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isn't that absolutely great? |
In short, I really like Mexico
so far: its history, the landscape, the streets; but above all the people.
Until now only friendly, interested Mexican men and women who always tried really hard to communicate
with me. So below just some more pictures..... hasta entonces
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trying to earn some living.....a hard job for many elderly people |
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