Mittwoch, 5. August 2015

Tuesday, August 4, 2015: the way to the Monument Valley - or a memorable day!



Summary of the day: after more than 10'000km Suzy had twice ground contact today :-(

Full story:
This morning it took a while until I had stowed away my clothes properly on the bike. 5 days at the same place I am developing a tendency to spread out all my belongings… but well, I was in no hurries....
But then on I went towards Monument Valley. The much-vaunted No. 12 (Utah, East) and the Burr Trail (just google it, there is plenty of information about it!) At the beginning I had the feeling: Well, the No. 12 is not THAT special now. And then again the multiple large road signs: Motorcycles must drive extremely carefully, very tight curves on the next 160km !!! Well that was something I had learned to ignore as it always turned out to be harmless. But this time I was completely wrong. Between Escalante and Boulder an eye-opener chased the other. The landscape once again stunning and curves without end.








Then in Boulder I filled up with fuel (a mistake, as it turned out later) and for once bought water and a banana (which turned out to be perfect - later) ...
The first 30km on the Burr-Trail were still paved, then suddenly came a fine gravel road. The longer the way, the more gravel there was - but really great to drive, even with full luggage and without lowering the pressure of the tires. I trained busily "watch forward" while driving the curves and it was getting better (and faster). Between again and again a stop to take pictures from that awesome scenery.
After about 40km gravel road then again a big sign: Caution on the next 5km (or so) many switchbacks. Well, let's see J
And really; besides that the road went now quite steep downhill, there switchbacks to see - nota bene on the finest gravel. Before getting on to that challenge I again wanted to make a picture. Without further ado parked the motorcycle on the roadside and made the obligatory photos. While I got back on the motorcycle there was that flash of thought: Judith, be careful. Suzy Blue is already straight on the side stand without you on it ... but that thought was already too late. Of course, my weight has pressed down the saddle and forced Suzy Blue to the right. Until my right foot finally had contact with the ground, Suzy Blue had it as well!! Super, Judith. It remains my secret what all nice words came to my mind about my stupidness. Ok: take off all possible baggage, jerk Suzy Blue in a better location for setting up, ignore the leaking gasoline (the overflow and from the tank lid) and try. But what can I say, every time I had it so far that I could slowly help with the rest of my body, the front wheel slipped away in the gravel - and in about 2 meters distance from the slope. Stones and the rest of my luggage set in front of the wheel – it helped nothing. So I had no choice as to wait - at the traffic a matter of hours. Now I was happy to have a banana and water with me. After about half an hour (what a luck), a pickup came down the mountain. An American couple on honeymoon. They helped me in setting up, I threw my luggage onto the pickup and I then boldly drove ahead - purely into the switchbacks. Suzy Blue did not want to start the engine – no wonder after that treatment. But after some fruitless tries to get her started by let her roll down I finally was successful (which again made me a bit proud in that situation: steep and on gravel). Down in the valley we took some pictures, changed adresses and still made jokes that we certainly would run into each other again as we had the same route in mind.



 










And on we went; Suzy Blue had no damages, my pride, however, had!! After another 20km then suddenly a little creek crossing the street – there was even a sign "when flooded do not pass". All right; it was not a flood and driving back was not an issue. More headaches than the water gave me the rather steep entrance and exit from the creek. But I just gave it a try. As I already had the practice several times from last year’s Tuscany offroad-week. With well-dose pace down, purely in the creek, on the other side out with a little more speed to be sure not to dig the tyres into the mud. Unfortunately there was a big fat rock hidden under the sand right at the end of the exit. My front wheel according to law slipped to the right as I accelerated a bit.
And it came as it had to come (my offroad friends will lough now – as this is my “bestseller” on every offroad-week):  Suzy Blue grounded in the roadside ditch right after crossing successfully the creek. But since I knew that my two "angels" were just a few minutes behind me, I just kept waiting for them. They had been quite amused to meet me again in the same situation (and probably doubt now whether I really will manage it to drive down to South America). Suzy Blue put up again and bye. Nothing happened, I had got to know two great, helpful Americans and had learned veeery much:

- I will probaly not be able to put up alone Suzy Blue downhill and on gravel (or similar) without damaging something (greetings from my back!)
- The luggage on the side have held and also preserved Suzy Blue to any damage; turn signals, mirrors, latches, levers .... everything ok.
- I will try not to be that stupid again and think twice when stopping at the roadside
- I will hire a coach next year who will exclusively practice creek passages with me ;-)


In the long turn: a remarkable day; the worst point in the end: I found a room in a town with no alcohol at all. So no nice and cool beer after that exhausting and hot day!
 

Dienstag, 4. August 2015

Thursday, July 30 - Monday, August 3, 2015: Nationalparks.... one more beautiful than the other

Once again, I had a good nose for the campingground, which I had chosen just because of the good location: not expensive (the first to make a reduction because I am alone), clean, green grass to put the tent on plus a shady tree - besides the usual table / bench / fire ring. Without long thinking about  I booked for 5 nights right away as I could drive easily from there to the surrounding national parks it would take Zion, Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon. On the drive to buy some food - this time only 4 miles away - even a German bakery what means the first nice dark bread since I left home. Just right for the planned hikes. The next morning, an early start as I wanted to avoid the announced heat. The "Observation Point" in Zion National Park was on the plan; early in the morning at 6 with the motorcycle around 50km to the National Park, changed clothes and then by shuttle bus to the beginning of the trail. Luckily there was again another hiker - an American teacher - and so we went up the 4 miles and 700 meters together. He was quite a glad that I was there, he had a slight fear of hights. The effort was worth it, the views of the canyon was breathtaking. Plus – completely extraordinary  - walking all the time in the sand. Imagine that: you're at 2500 meters and it looks like on the beach ;-)

















The next day - August 1 and therefore Swiss national day, incl. mounted flag at the motorcycle mounted - I again got on my way early in the morning, direction to the Grand Canyon. "only" to the North Rim, as this northern viewpoint was only 160km away. Early in the morning this time not because of the heat but because of the announced thunderstorms. In addition, in the morning all these spots are far less crowded than later on. The trip was worth it in any case, the view down the Canyon was really extremely impressive. Walking down was out of the question as it would take two days. So after shooting the obligatory photos – just in time before the rainstorm started- and back towards Glendale. Since I started relatively early and my bike clothes thanks to the temperatures quickly dried up again (I was stupid enough to leave my rainsuit in the tent!!), I decided to drive a little extra round, means a really nice dirt road of about 50km. The scenery super, thank God no oncoming traffic – because of the draught you would drive afterwards for minutes in a red cloud of dust.  However Suzy Blue was not blue anymore but red powdered afterwards. But anyway, it was fun and I have to be prepared in case the road conditions are no longer quite as perfect once I will come to the southern countries.

















Day 3 of my National Park Round: Bryce Canyon was to be explored. Unfortunately again thunderstorms were announced for the afternoon. Means no way of sleeping long but again I started in time (about 60km of driving), change clothes and off we went to the Fairy Ground Trail, a round trip of more than 15km, but with only a little difference in elevation. Should not be a problem, to get through before the storm. The rock formations in Bryce Canyon again a completely different world - I go slow the superlatives! Hiking is possible - or at least by me- open-mouthed. What was the set in advance? "Should not be a problem"; Well, only the storm did not keep on the weatherforecast. About 3km before the trail end it started to dribble.
Little Judith therefore speeded up to win time. Which brings me our dad to my mind; when he was hiking with us, "Seeberger women", he had often meant: "Have you stolen something that you have to run like that"? But hey, that’s just our pace. I had to smile; this situation would be exactly have been a moment for his remark. But so I made it back to the motorcycle just in time before the storm went really off. Only that this time I had cleverly even the rain gear with me. Back in my tent I was exhausted as I did not make any rest or eat something. So I spent the rest of the day taking a nap and have my lunch break. Now that’s a nice way of living – isn’t it? ;-)



 









 
Day 4 of my National Park Round - means today – I headed once again back to Zion National Park. Famous, among other things because of the narrow gorge through which the little river Virgin has carved it’s remarkable way. One can - and it’s highly recommend with rented neoprene socks and waterboots – walk up the river and see how the canyon becomes increasingly close and marvel at the incredible traces of time. But see for yourself!


 
I was glad I was already on the way back at 11 clock. This hike to the "Narrows" belongs to the most popular destinations in Zion. True crowds came along, they all trying to avoid getting wet. I had made up my mind in return, not to leave the river until the beginning of the walk - not a problem, except that in the end I had to make a break on the sandy beach of the river. "had to" because I was wet up to the navel. But as I had the bikini on underneath I easily could take pants / T-shirt off and let it dry in the sun. 
Today again I was back early, so once more I took a gravel road to the “backyards”. Namely through the valley “Johnson Canyon” where all the famous Western with John Wayne and Co. had been filmed. Of the former Western city was not much left, but I could well imagine the sudden appearance of a horde of Apaches on the hilltops ;-). And shooting apparently still common, at least indicating the battered signs on the roadside!!













Tomorrow I will head towards Lake Powell and Monument Valley before slowly but surely approaching the Mexican border - and then my journey will take on a completely different "coloring": different language, different cultures ... I am really excited about that.
But not anticipate; first it is again enjoying a few days the natural beauty of Utah and Arizona (and ev. New Mexico). And possibly also make a trip to the Navajo Indians and learn something about their culture.